Marrakech Wallops The Senses Part 2

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_z0zC4rQUSXXU66lALXFSBYOV0IsdWTDA0lK0JlepSfGSzHPQOG3tZ8KBVO8kEXgSLBi1ZIIKGSAJXZX8QbZ5ZdvNXlgLE9F4Qj6119ArX3dIelU-J2BS3Lv_N6D20Gv7D2fNeDzBbDW4/s1600/dishes-of-marrakech.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_z0zC4rQUSXXU66lALXFSBYOV0IsdWTDA0lK0JlepSfGSzHPQOG3tZ8KBVO8kEXgSLBi1ZIIKGSAJXZX8QbZ5ZdvNXlgLE9F4Qj6119ArX3dIelU-J2BS3Lv_N6D20Gv7D2fNeDzBbDW4/s320/dishes-of-marrakech.png" width="240" /></a></div><a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"></a><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>GRILLED MEATS GALORE</b></a><br />Once a popular hole-in-the-wall, (7) Plats Haj Boujema (65 Mohamed ElBeqal; 212-524/421-862; lunch for two MAD163) retains its cheap prices and populist spirit despite the (almost) spiffy new digs in Gucliz. Beauties with kohl-rimmed eyes tend to order panini and pizza, but you should opt for the smoky carnivorous offerings. Succulent minced lamb kofte precede perfect beef brochettes, then flash-charred lamb chops and, for the adventurous, skewers of plush liver or brains. No tasting, please, without the taktuka, a zesty, garlicky tomato-and-grccn-pcppcr relish.<br /><br /><a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>ULTIMATE COUSCOUS</b></a><br />Few restaurants in town bother with the proper raking, swelling and multiple steamings of Morocco's signature semolina grains. (8) Dar Moha (81 Rue Dar el Bacha, Medina; 212-524/386-264; MAD1J00) bills itself as nouvelle marocaine, but its charismatic celebrity chef-owner MohaFedal happily takes an ancien approach to <b>couscous</b>. Start with a mosaic of Moroccan salads at your candlelit poolside table on the patio of French designer Pierre Balmain's former riad. Midway through the degustation menu, a duo of couscous dishes invites you to compare earthier <b>Berber-style</b> barley pellets with the more familiar durum wheat, here as light and fluffy as snowflakes. And near the end of your meal don't forget, the dessert pastilla, made with apples and saffron, dcliciously contrasts cream and crunch. »<br /><a name="more"></a><b>A MEAL FIT FOR A KING</b><br />The cliche "royal repast" reacquires its zing at the extravagant Royal Mansour Marrakcch hotel, owned by the king of Morocco. Need more pedigree? Parisian chef Yannick Allcno of Michclin three-starred Restaurant Lc Mcuricc oversees the hotel's trio of restaurants. At the lofty (9) La Grande Table Marocaine (RueAbou Abbas el Sebti, Medina; 212-529/808-080; dinner for two MAD3.018), chandeliers glitter onto filigrccd metal tables under a coffered ceiling. A waitress in a white caftan reveals a tagine pot's treasure: sweetly spiced duck meatballs stuffed into tender artichoke hearts. The regal highlight: seffa medfouna, a complex veal-and-apricot stew, buried in a mound of ethereal, thrice-steamed vermicelli ornamented with almonds and cinnamon.<br /><br /><br /><b>FAMILY-STYLE DINING</b><br />Run by the female members of the Chab clan and specializing in the intricate flavors of Fez, (10) Al Fassia Aguedal (9 bis Rte. de I'Ourika, Zone Touristique de lAguedal; 212-524/381-138; dinner for two MAD530) is equally adored by tourists, opinionated French expats and local foodies. The newer Aguedal location is more sociable than the original branch, with celebrating families upstairs and couples on the low, cushy banquettes on the ground floor. Bilingual servers will chat you through the 15 appetizers: salad-y dishes featuring three sumptuous iterations of carrots, an orange-blossom-scented tomato jam and dainty, crisp briouat pastries. Don't miss the majestic whole lamb shoulder for two—slowly roasted, its brown, burnished glaze is punctuated by almonds. At meal's end.<br /><br /><b>UNLIKELIEST SPAGHETTI</b><br /><b> </b>Why schlep to Morocco for a bowl of spaghetti? Because Campania's ubcr-chef Alfonso Iaccarino is the genius behind (11) L'ltalien (Ave. BabJdid, Medina; 212-524/388-600; dinner for two MADl,223)t within the renovated La Mamounia hotel. While the Jacques Garcia design is all dark, vampy opulence, the spaghetti Don Alfonso is an essay in sunny simplicity: a vibrant sugo of baby tomatoes clings just so to the al dente pasta from Gragnano producer Gentile, a single fragrant basil leaf the only garnish. The other primi present an equally bclla figura. Begin with the gossamer lobster fritto and fade out with a luscious, boozy Sorrentine baba au rhum, a dream of Amalfi by way of the Sahara.<br /><br /><br /><b>BEST PASTRIES</b><br />"Artistique!" cry sweet-toothed locals about the almond-y handiwork of Madame Alami, sugar diva of (12) Al Jawda pastry shop (11 Rue de la Liberte, Gueliz; 212-524/433-897; pastries for two MAD41). Feet aching? Claim a noir rattan chair on the terrace of her Parisian-looking (13) Al Jawda Plus tearoom (84 Ave. Mohammed V; 212-524/434-662; pastilla/or two MAD98) and order the definitive version of pasdlla, Morocco's baroque pigeon pie. Crunchy yet light without the usual excess dusting of sugar, the warqa pastry encloses a sweet-savory marvel offender, chunky braised pigeon in a plush ambience of ground almonds and beaten eggs. Tt arrives redolent of orange-flower water and a complex blend of spices. End with comes de gazelles pastry half-moons and ultra-crumbly ghriba cookies. On the other side of town, by the covered produce souk, the dollhousc displays of some six dozen syrup-glistening pastries and date sweetmeats at (14) Patisserie Anjar (121 Ave. Houmane El Fetouaki, Arset Lamadch; 212-524/378-983) entice even the most pastry-phobic. The white-chocolate-glazed almond-and-citron confection tastes like marzipan from heaven.<br /><br /><br />  <br /><b>DRINK WITH A VIEW</b><br />The minimalist (15) Sky Bar (89 Angle Blvds. Zerkhtoimi and Mohammed V, Gueliz; 212-524/337-777; drinks for two MAD122), at the 1950's-stylc Hotel La Renaissance, is the highest perch in the city. Come before dusk for the snowcapped Atlas Mountains vista, an ice-cold Casablanca beer, and the incongruous sight of macho dudes in Ray-Bans enjoying drinks with fruit slices. Once the red rooftop RAR sign lights up, amble over to the lobby drinking den at the (16) BAB Hotel (Blvd. Mansour Eddahbi and Rue Mohamed El Beqal Gueliz; 212-524/435-250; cocktails for two MAD196), where drinks arc accompanied by Morocco-inspired tapas. The visuals here constitute another kind of tour de force, with a cool, camel-bone-tiled counter and lampshades of shaggy recycled plastic. The libations list is equally cheeky. How about a Jack Is Back—vodka zapped with kiwi, lemon and ginger?<br /><br /><b><br /></b><br /><b>TOP COOKING SCHOOL</b><br />Franco-Italian aristocrat Fabrizio Ruspoli has added 10 rooms to (17) La Maison Arabe (J DerbAssehbe, Bab Doukkala, Medina; 212-524/387-010; lamaisonarabe.com; doubles from MAD2.039; half-day cooking classes from MAD612 per person), his sybaritic riad on the medina's edge. The cooking school remains stellar, with small class sizes for a total immersion into the fragrant North African cuisine. Instructor Dada Fatiha learned from her mother, who cooked for a local pasha. Before rolling up their sleeves to make flaky briouat pastries and a chicken tagine accented with cinnamon and sesame seeds, students tour the spice market and cull tips from congenial university professor Mohammed Nahir. (A saffron secret? Pulverize it in a mortar with a touch of salt before using.) Lessons conclude with a DIY feast overlooking a dreamy pool flanked by olive trees.<br /><br /><b>BRING IT BACK</b><br />Savvy shoppers head to the venerable Mellah souk (near Place des Fcrblanticrs, in the city's old Jewish ghetto), where donkeys ferry huge loads along narrow passageways, striped-robed vendors tend conical piles of turmeric and paprika, and sacks bulge with dried rosebuds and sandalwood. Take in the scene over a sage tea or anise-spiked Arabic coffee on the balcony cafe of the<br />(18)    Art de Vivre Oriental complex (88 Rue de Commerce Hay Salam, Mellah; 212-524/389-791; tea for two MAD16). Stock up on saffron, spice blends and medicinal tisanes at<br />(19)    Herboristerie Ibnou Nafiss (52 Rue Dar Daou, Arset Lamadch; 212-655/560-822). Those looking for chic hand-painted tea glasses and earth-toned artisanal linen place mats and tablecloths should visit (20) Scenes de Lin (70 Rue de la Liberte, Gueliz; 212-524/436-108). For argan oil-both cosmetic and culinary—and vibrant essences from organic ingredients grown on the owner's farm, get Nectarome-brand products at (21) Essence des Sens (52 Rue Mouassin<br />e, Medina; 212-6/7696-3107): the orange-flower water will perfume desserts or fruit salads, and a dash of black sesame oil can transform a stew. Dizzy from endless patterns? The tea sets, candlesticks and mini tagine pots at (22) Jamade (1 Place DouarGraoua, Rue Riad Zitoun ./'did, Medina; 212-524/429-042), produced by artisans and women's collectives, feature fluid, modern shapes, smooth glazing and eye-popping monochrome hues. +</div>

Marrakech Wallops The Senses Part 2

GRILLED MEATS GALORE Once a popular hole-in-the-wall, (7) Plats Haj Boujema (65 Mohamed ElBeqal; 212-524/421-862; lunch for two MAD163) reta...

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Marrakech wallops the senses

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifij_EHIBFlthyphenhyphenkuImh5A9Dnp6clbBAWr07Wp550ZS294kWznM95bzihwx8R3XIZx7QE92Nb6uwgsRV7GS2px30oW0XlESq6oHp1LHnTO7kf359q6FZAt5D6I1pYVf5LgO9OQ7US7q5Quu/s1600/dishes-of-marrakech.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifij_EHIBFlthyphenhyphenkuImh5A9Dnp6clbBAWr07Wp550ZS294kWznM95bzihwx8R3XIZx7QE92Nb6uwgsRV7GS2px30oW0XlESq6oHp1LHnTO7kf359q6FZAt5D6I1pYVf5LgO9OQ7US7q5Quu/s320/dishes-of-marrakech.png" width="248" /></a></div><div style="font-family: inherit; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: small;">FEW PLACES ON THE PLANET OFFER SUCH A DIZZYING MOST FRAGRANT COUSCOUS, THE ULTIMATE TAGINE AND OTHER SPICY SECRETS OF MOROCCO'S CULINARY CAPITAL.  <b><a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/">MARRAKECH</a></b> WALLOPS THE SENSES. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A riot of colors (mosaic tiles; woven textiles), sounds (the drone of drums from the central square. <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>Jamaa El Fna</b></a>), and, of course, tastes. Whether in the souks of the <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>walled Medina</b></a> or the hourgeois district of <b>Gueliz</b>, there is no hettcr place to savor the diversity of North African cuisine—lamb, <b>couscous</b>, eggplant all redolent of cumin, saffron and the crimson pepper sauce harissa—than this ancient crossroads. </div><a name="more"></a><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>BREAKFAST FEST</b> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cult morning favorite (1) Espace Fruits Outmane (40 Ave. Mouldy Rachid, Gueliz; no phone; breakfast for two MAD82) might be miniature, but it's mirrored, tiled and festooned with soccer ball-scale papayas and grapefruits. At the rickety plastic tables outside, bearded gentlemen aerate their mint teas and pretty young moms ply kids with the thick, tart house yogurt. While awaiting your omelette with dusky shreds of khelea (dried preserved beef)* slather aromatic flat cornbreads with honey and amloiu a nutty-rich almond-and-argan-oil spread that will ruin peanut butter for you forever. Finish with the Panache Outmane—a frothy kiwi, strawberry and orange juice potion.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>EAT LIKE A LOCAL</b> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The meal of your life... at a gas station? Indeed. A 20-minutc hop from town along the old Fez route brings you to (2) Al Baraka (RP24 Commune Annakhil Sidi YousefBen Ali; 212-524/329-267; luneh for two MAD245), its cheery outdoor tables an agreeable distance from the pumps. Here's the drill: flat bread—as blistered and chewy as Rome's best pizza bianca—at a window where Berber ladies slap dough into a wood-fueled oven. Next, grilled lamb from the butcher shop in the middle. Finish at the tagine station, where coals smolder beneath the blackened conical pots. Good luck choosing between a whole country chicken, pungent with preserved lemons and olives, and a tender beef shank fragrant with cloves and sweet, smoky prunes. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>SOUK STANDOUTS</b> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">An orange sunset floods the tiny windows of the Kutublyah minaret in the distance, smoke drifts up from myriad food stalls, the giiawa drums throb, and children swarm around snake charmers and monkey trainers. The roof-terrace tables at (3) Cafe de France (Jamaa El Fna square; 212-524/442-319; tea for two MAD57) offer the best vantage point for this great Jamaa El Fna square spectacle, but arrive well before twilight to snag a chair with a view. Tasting your way through the square itself can be challenging: the tablecloth stalls arc filled with tourists, while the authentic ones can require a stomach of steel. vSo follow our lead to (4) Hassan (Stall No. 32; snacks for two MAD41) for juicy merguez sausages served at a tin counter thronged by big families. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>FOR ROAST LAMB </b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">As humble street stalls open branches in upscale Gueliz, Haj Mostapha N'Guyer, the local mechoui (roasted lamb) emperor, has joined the wave. Find him first, in robe and skullcap, at his (5) Haj Mostapha stand in a mcdina alley (Souk Quessabine, off the northeastern end of Jamaa El Fna; no phone; lunch for two MAD98). Then seek out his alter ego at (6) Chez Lamine (19 Angle Ibn Aicha and Mohamed El Beqal, Residence Yasmine; 212-524/431-164; lunch for two MAD130), speaking French and sporting a European-style suit. At both locations the lamb is spectacular: roasted in an underground clay pit until mcltingly tender, sold by weight (request the moist neck and rib meat) and served on butcher paper with cumin salt. Your flatbread roll serves as plate, utensil, napkin and absorber of the rich, fatty goodness</div>

Marrakech wallops the senses

FEW PLACES ON THE PLANET OFFER SUCH A DIZZYING MOST FRAGRANT COUSCOUS, THE ULTIMATE TAGINE AND OTHER SPICY SECRETS OF MOROCCO'S CULIN...

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Dinner For Two In Marrakech

<div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></b><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ijQyGpGzmU-zjRvtZMs9lDJ7o6Iknxp2ioWdUDs7fa5jVjacM6arDZToNbOxj-asd_lB3J57UcfKUto-L7ZdF90n3wh_By9uK0Wxe72Lpmh1wXLKcF1EA0ow4kvwNuO7sMBMXnuKyTuT/s1600/marokko-marrakech-la-sultana-diner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7ijQyGpGzmU-zjRvtZMs9lDJ7o6Iknxp2ioWdUDs7fa5jVjacM6arDZToNbOxj-asd_lB3J57UcfKUto-L7ZdF90n3wh_By9uK0Wxe72Lpmh1wXLKcF1EA0ow4kvwNuO7sMBMXnuKyTuT/s1600/marokko-marrakech-la-sultana-diner.jpg" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"><a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>Morocco</b></a> is famous for its food, and no wonder. It's mouthwatering and eclectic, and there's something for everyone. The best-known dish is the <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/search/label/Restaurants"><b><i>tagine</i></b></a>, a filling stew slow cooked in an earthenware pot with a conical lid. In addition to chicken, beef, lamb, fish, or vegetables, <b><i>tagines</i></b> often include stewed fruit, olives, onions, or almonds. Many restaurants also serve couscous, particularly as a traditional family lunch on Fridays. The seven-veggie couscous royale, topped with a raisin/onion concoction, is not to be missed. </span></div><a name="more"></a><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Brochettes (skewers of meat or chicken) are always a safe bet and are especially popular with the junior set. <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/search/label/Restaurants"><b><i>Harira</i></b></a>, a soup made with tomatoes and chickpeas and served with bread and dates, is a warming and often vegetarian alternative. If the food strikes you as a touch blah--you chili fiend!--request <i>harissa</i>, a hot sauce that'll send your taste buds into overdrive. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">There's a wide variety of places to nibble and dine in Marrakech, from street stalls to opulent restaurants out of <i>The Arabian Nights</i>. And café culture is omnipresent--thanks, no doubt, to the country's history as a French colony. I provide a range of food choices below, from the super cheap to the save-up-your-pennies splurge. Also included are some non-Moroccan options for those who want to mix it up a little. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Marrakech's bountiful tangerine and orange trees make for fresh juice everywhere. Yay! By day, head to the orange-juice stalls on the <b>Jemaa el-Fna</b>, the city's famous central square. There are dozens of juice stalls, all of which are numbered. I haven't ever really noticed a difference between the juice at No. 1 and the juice at No. 23. So pick the stand with your lucky number and make a beeline. A smile usually gets you a free half refill. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">By night, the juice stalls are wheeled away and dozens of open-air kitchens are set up in tidy rows, with communal bench seating. I'm partial to the stall where a chef with a handlebar moustache makes <i>harira</i>. Be sure to check out the stands that specialize in exotica like sheep's head or snails (you slurp them from a cup). Sadly, no beer is on offer at any of the stalls. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">On the sidelines of the Jemaa el-Fna is <b>Ice Legend</b>, an ice cream shop. It's particularly enticing for the little ones in the group, but adults too will appreciate a scoop of one of the 50 homemade flavors. <b>Café des Épices</b>, in the medina's spice market, is a charming and aromatic spot for breakfast or a glass of hot mint tea. Further down the medina's serpentine alleys is <b>La Terrasse des Épices</b> in Souk Cherifia. (It's owned by the same guy who owns Café des Épices.) Salads start at just $6.50, and you can bask in the sun on the huge terrace. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">There are four upscale restaurants in the Old City that I happily recommend. The stylish <b>Kosybar</b>, on the place des Ferblantiers, has a mix of Moroccan and continental offerings, as well as inventive cocktails. By day, you can watch huge storks in their nests from the upstairs terrace. Swanky <b>Le Tanjia</b>, a restaurant with rose-filled fountains, is nearby. The Sunday brunch is excellent, as is the tender monkfish available at lunch or dinner. Another chic spot in the Mouassine district is <b>Café Arabe</b>. This Italian-owned <i>riad</i>(courtyard home) boasts not only a restaurant serving homemade pastas from $9, but also a hip rooftop bar. And in the Kasbah area is <b>Tatchibana</b>, where you can break out of the norm with sushi and other Japanese delicacies. Tatchibana is open only for dinner except on Sunday, when it offers lunch, too.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;"></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">Some of Marrakech's coolest eating spots are in the newer parts of the city. In Guéliz, <b>Kechmara</b> has mid-century modern decor with ever-changing art, and a sunny terrace that's a good choice for breakfast and lunch; the restaurant does a fine mixed grill for $12. <b>Café du Livre</b>, also in Guéliz, has free Wi-Fi and a selection of English-language books for you to peruse while ordering coffee, lunch, or an early dinner (entrées from $8). Sushi is served during the evening from Thursday to Saturday, but the café is open only until 9 p.m. And the colonial atmosphere at <b>Grand Café de la Poste</b> provides a nice backdrop for excellent salads, starting at $10, as well as hot meals. Enjoy a Casablanca beer on the covered veranda. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">In the majorly upscale category is <b>Le Bis-Jardin des Arts</b>, a new restaurant with gorgeous decor. The delicious entrées start at $17. For other überglamorous experiences, hop in a car and head to the city's outskirts. <b>Restaurant L'Abbysin</b> is at the stunning Palais Rhoul, a luxurious palace hotel. The sleek, white outdoor venue is photo-shoot worthy, even if the nouvelle cuisine is more passable than memorable. The <b>Crystal Restaurant Lounge</b>, in the trendy Pacha complex, has artful food arrangements almost too pretty to eat. Make reservations for Friday or Saturday night to listen to jazz.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Ice Legend</b>52 ave. Bab Agnaou, Jemaa el-Fna, 011-212/24-44-42-00 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Café des Épices</b> 75 Rahba Lakdima, place des Épices, 011-212/24-39-17-70, </span><a href="http://www.cafedesepices.net/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">cafedesepices.net</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Terrasse des Épices</b> Souk Cherifia, Dar el Bacha, 011-212/76-04-67-67 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Kosybar</b>47 place des Fer­blantiers, Médina, 011-212/24-38-03-24, entrées from $19 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Le Tanjia</b>14 Derb J'did Hay Essalam, Médina, 011-212/24-38-38-36, </span><a href="http://www.le-tanjia.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">le-tanjia.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">, monkfish $14 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Café Arabe</b>184 rue el Mouassine, Médina, 011-212/24-42-97-28, </span><a href="http://www.cafearabe.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">cafearabe.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Tatchibana</b>38 Bab Ksiba, Kasbah, 011-212/24-38-71-71, </span><a href="http://tatchibana.free.fr/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">tatchibana.free.fr</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">, sushi plate $20 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Kechmara</b>3 rue de la Liberté, Guéliz, 011-212/24-42-25-32, </span><a href="http://www.kechmara.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">kechmara.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Café du Livre</b> 44 rue Tarik ben Ziyad, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-21-49, </span><a href="http://www.cafedulivre.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">cafedulivre.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Grand Café de la Poste</b> blvd. el Mansour Eddahbi at ave. Imam Malik, Guéliz, 011-212/24-43-30-38, </span><a href="http://www.grandcafedelaposte.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">grandcafedelaposte.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Le Bis-Jardin des Arts</b> 6-7 rue Sakia el Hamra, Semlalia, 011-212/24-44-66-34, </span><a href="http://www.lebis-jardindesarts.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">lebis-jardindesarts.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>L'Abbysin</b>Km 4, rte. de Fes, 011-212/24-32-85-84, </span><a href="http://www.palais-rhoul.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">palais-rhoul.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">, entrées from $19 </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 12pt;">·</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">  <b>Crystal Restaurant Lounge</b> blvd. Mohamed VI, Zone Hôtelière de l'Aguedal, 011-212/24-38-84-00, </span><a href="http://www.pachamarrakech.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">pachamarrakech.com</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt;">, entrées from $10</span></div>

Dinner For Two In Marrakech

Morocco is famous for its food, and no wonder. It's mouthwatering and eclectic, and there's something for everyone. The best-known...

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Discover Marrakch in 36 Hours

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_G-9Iyt4JRHDEuBpwcE9mrIqZk_pSCZEK46vsLbM-BGNsqZtMRvSwHtHW4AgG43Jnl34J7F2UUN53CE6OZpQYZQlGf2u9YMUM_GSwUGsV4Dv4GuO3jljfHfo3bDnHMIa7fuuJw9DIjc-/s1600/Marrakech-36-hours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ_G-9Iyt4JRHDEuBpwcE9mrIqZk_pSCZEK46vsLbM-BGNsqZtMRvSwHtHW4AgG43Jnl34J7F2UUN53CE6OZpQYZQlGf2u9YMUM_GSwUGsV4Dv4GuO3jljfHfo3bDnHMIa7fuuJw9DIjc-/s320/Marrakech-36-hours.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">IN 1939, George Orwell wrote of Westerners flocking to <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/"><b>Marrakech</b></a> in search of “camels, castles, palm-trees, Foreign Legionnaires, brass trays and bandits.” Ever since, the city has been ravishing visitors with its teeming souks, ornate palaces and sybaritic night life. In recent years, a succession of high-end openings and restorations — most notably, the lavish reopening of the hotel <a href="http://marrakech-travels.blogspot.com/2011/08/la-mamounia-marrakech-revitalised.html"><b>La Mamounia</b></a> — has transformed the city into an obligatory stop for jet-setters. Yet despite Marrakesh’s new cachet, the true treasures of the enigmatic city still hide down dusty side streets and behind sagging storefronts.</div><a name="more"></a>Friday<br /><br /><b>5 p.m.<br />1) MEDINA, REFINED</b><br /><br />For sheer energy and intrigue, few places rival the labyrinthine souks of Marrakesh’s fortified old city. Skullcapped artisans sweat over ancient lathes while overdressed French tourists haggle over inlaid cedar boxes and silver lamps. In recent years, up-and-coming designers have opened fashionable boutiques in the Souk Cherifia that put a contemporary twist on Arab-Andalusian motifs. Lalla (Souk Cherifia, First Floor, Sidi Abdelaziz; 212-661-477-228; lalla.fr) opened in 2008 and carries slouchy Mauritanian leather handbags that are carried in stylish London stores like Paul & Joe and Coco Ribbon. The designer Marion Theard recently opened La Maison Bahira (Souk Cherifia, First Floor, Sidi Abdelaziz; 212-524-386-365; maison-bahira.com), which sells her signature handwoven textiles, hammam towels and embroidered pillows. For a break from the haggling, stop by Le Jardin (32 Sidi Abdelaziz, Souk Jeld; 212-524-378-295), a cafe that opened its doors last month and is owned by Kamal Laftimi, a young Moroccan also behind the popular Café des Épices and Terrace des Épices.<br /><br /><b>7 p.m.<br />2) SQUARE PLATES</b><br /><br />Djemaa el Fna, the main square of the Medina, is a motley tapestry of life, where shoppers wade through a chaos of fortune tellers, snake charmers and pushy henna painters. But it’s also one of the best places to get acquainted with the rich flavors and textures of Moroccan cuisine. Go at sundown to the square’s myriad food stalls, when hundreds of gas lanterns light up billows of steam. Ignore the men trying to divert traffic to their particular stall, and grab yourself a seat where there are plenty of locals. A good starter is a bowl of snails in saffron broth, from one of the snail stands on the eastern end of the square (10 dirhams, about $1.23 at 8.2 dirhams to the dollar). Follow that with a lamb couscous doused in harissa at one of the stalls on the north end (30 dirhams). Adventurous eaters should try one of the mutton stalls near the square’s center, where everything from sheep’s brain to skewered heart is sold.<br /><br />9 p.m.<br />3) BOOZING à LA CHURCHILL<br /><br />Le Bar Churchill, in the resplendently renovated La Mamounia (Avenue Bab Jdid; 212-524-388-600; mamounia.com), is a perfect spot for rubbing shoulders with the well-heeled set. Named for its most famous patron, Le Bar Churchill escaped the hotel’s face-lift largely unscathed, and still drips in supple black leather, leopard skin and polished chrome. If you’re seeking belly dancers, Le Comptoir Darna (Avenue Echouhada; 212-524-437-702; comptoirdarna.com), a French-Moroccan brasserie in the up-and-coming Hivernage quarter, offers one of the city’s best floor shows, a hip-shaking affair that spills down the central staircase and into the dining room.<br /><br />Saturday<br /><br /><b>10 a.m.<br />4) SOUK CHEF</b><br /><br />Can’t get enough tagine? Learn to make it yourself at Souk Cuisine (Zniquat Rahba, Derb Tahtah 5; 212-673-804-955; soukcuisine.com), one of several Moroccan cooking workshops that have cropped up in recent years. Run by Gemma van de Burgt, a Dutch expatriate, the half-day workshop (10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.) starts with a visit to the Rahba Kedima market to forage for quince, argan oil and other Moroccan ingredients. Classes convene in the courtyard of an old riad, where budding chefs learn how to make dishes like lamb tagine and raisin couscous, culminating in a four-course lunch on the terrace, served with mint tea and wine (40 euros).<br /><br /><b>3 p.m.<br />5) MANICURED JUNGLE</b><br /><br />French colonialism still informs facets of the city, and the melding of French and Moroccan sensibilities is perhaps most beautifully expressed in the Majorelle Gardens (212-524-313-047; JardinMajorelle.com), a 12-acre botanical garden in the French district of Gueliz. The cobalt-blue gardens were designed in the 1920s by the painter Jacques Majorelle and are filled with palms, yucca, lily ponds and a huge variety of tropical flowers and cactuses. They later became the backyard of Yves Saint Laurent, whose deep love for Marrakesh is evident in his personal collection of Moroccan crafts and textiles on display in the adjoining Islamic Art Museum.<br /><br />5 p.m.<br />6) A FOCUS ON BERBERS<br /><br />After being marginalized for centuries, Berber culture is now a cause célèbre for Moroccan gallerists and historians. The Maison de la Photographie (46 Ahal Fès; 212-524-385-721; maison-delaphotographie.com) opened last year in a restored fondouk, or traditional inn, and is devoted to documenting Berber life in the Medina. A 4,500-photograph collection includes rare glimpses of Jewish Berbers and a fascinating assemblage of glass plates dating from 1862. The museum is crowned with a roof cafe, which offers stellar views of the Medina. The 40-dirham ticket also gets you into Ecomusée Berbere de l’Ourika (Vilage de Tafza, Route de l’Ourika, Km. 37; 212-524-385-721; ecomuseeberbere.com), a new museum 23 miles outside the city that captures life in a traditional Berber village.<br /><br /><b>8 p.m.<br />7) FROM BEIRUT, WITH LOVE</b><br /><br />If the city’s hotels have gone upscale, the dining scene has gone through the roof. Marcel Chiche, a restaurateur and local night-life titan, recently opened Azar (Rue de Yougoslavie, near Boulevard Hassan II; 212-524-430-920; azarmarrakech.com), a splashy Lebanese restaurant that draws a party-ready crowd. The shimmering design of the dining room is the work of Younes Duret, a rising French-Moroccan designer. The modern Lebanese dishes include eggplant caviar with sesame crème (40 dirhams) and a rotisserie chicken (140). After dinner, take the Astroturf-carpeted elevator to the downstairs bar, where the city’s beautiful people dance to live Arabic pop music.<br /><br />11 p.m.<br />8) NORTH AFRICAN NIGHTS<br /><br />Though Gueliz still buzzes with bars and clubs, the newer action is clustered in the industrial Hivernage district. One of the most fashionable spots is Lotus Club (Rue Ahmed Chawki; 212-524-431-537; riadslotus.com), a laid-back restaurant and nightclub styled as an urban retreat. On the weekends, 20- and 30-somethings mingle under floral-kitsch white lamps as D.J.’s mix electronic beats with Bollywood pop.<br /><br />Sunday<br /><br /><b>10 a.m.<br />9) SWEAT ROYALLY</b><br /><br />In the land of a thousand hammams, mega-spas seem to get larger by the day. It doesn’t get more lavish than the Royal Mansour (Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti; 212-529-808-080; royalmansour.com), a fortressed pleasure palace consisting of 53 riads connected by tunnels that is owned by King Mohammed VI. Women in elaborately embroidered caftans lead visitors through a palatial foyer into private chambers where treatments include an aromatic massage with argan oil, from 1,200 dirhams.<br /><br /><b>Noon<br />10) BOUTIQUE SHOPPING</b><br /><br />Tired of haggling? Head to the fashionable boutiques that have opened recently along Rue de la Liberté in Gueliz. Moor (7 Rue des Anciens Marrakchis; 212-524-458-274; akbardelights.com) sells leather floor pillows and stylish tunics under a ceiling covered in giant white lanterns. Though the name of this children’s shop is unwieldy even for French-speakers, La Manufacture de Vêtements Pour Enfants Sages (44 Rue des Anciens Marrakchis; 212-524-446-704) carries everything from handmade Moroccan pajamas to colorful stuffed camels. A common complaint among Marrakesh art collectors is that all the good young artists decamp to Europe. But new galleries like David Bloch Gallery (8 bis Rue des Vieux Marrakchis; 212-524-457-595; davidblochgallery.com), which specializes in street art, have become a platform for up-and-coming French and Moroccan artists. The gallery, housed in a stark concrete block covered with colorful graffiti, creates yet another level of contrast in the ever-evolving city.<br /><br />IF YOU GO<br /><br />The boho-chic Peacock Pavilions (Kilometer 13, Route de Ourzazate; peacockpavilions.com), opened this year, sits on an 8.5-acre grove just outside the city. It’s made up of two stunning pavilions. The smaller, 1,300-square-foot double-room pavilion costs 350 euros a night, $460 at $1.31 to the euro; one of the rooms can also be rented for 150 euros.<br /><br />After a three-year renovation by the Parisian architect Jacques Garcia, La Mamounia (Avenue Bab Jdid; 212-524-388-600; mamounia.com), originally opened in 1923, has never been grander. It now has indoor and outdoor pools and Michelin-starred chefs, not to mention helicopter rides over the Atlas Mountains. Rooms from 665 euros.<br /><br />In a renovated traditional riad well-situated within the Medina, the welcoming and affordable Riad Dar Khmissa (166 Derb Jamaa; Arset Moussa Lakbira; 212-524-443-707; dar-khmissa-marrakech.com) offers seven comfortable rooms and a lovely roof terrace. From 50 euros, including a delicious home-cooked Moroccan breakfast.

Discover Marrakch in 36 Hours

IN 1939, George Orwell wrote of Westerners flocking to Marrakech in search of “camels, castles, palm-trees, Foreign Legionnaires, brass tra...

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